Magical Journeys to Essaouira Morocco

It was seventeen years ago when I got the flavour of Morocco. The first wave of interior design featuring ethnic styles was becoming increasingly more recognised, leaving behind the eighties fashions for Laura Ashley and pastel shades. I went with my friend to celebrate my fortieth and to see first hand the beautifully decorated china, coloured tea glasses and richly coloured textiles.

I have yearned to return ever since, so when the Creative Writing teacher Claire Steele came onto my radar with her Magical Journeys to far off lands like Kerala, Thailand and yes, yes, to Essaouira. Serendipity waved her wand and I was to discover that we would also be staying in the same Riad that had enchanted me nearly two decades ago.  The Villa Maroc is a haven in a paradise, exquisitely decorated and staffed with the most caring and attentive ladies and gentlemen.  Like all Riad houses, the exterior bare walls gives nothing away of what will wow you once you venture down its corridors.

so many ramshackle doors in walls that lead to who knows where

villa maroc

Essaouira, the windy city, the city of cats and carpets, is a breezy sea port on the coast of Morocco.  Previously to reach here you would have to negotiate the overwhelming and crazy Marrakesh to then drive three hours south, but now we have a brand spanking new airport, shiny and clean and just the right size for one or two planes a day, if only all airports could be this size.

You will probably know by now, that I am crazy about cats, nutty about squirrels and simply stupid about anything with a fur coat. I had forgotten how many cats were here and suddenly got a jolt that I may get upset if I saw too many poorly ones needing attention. Thankfully this isn't the case, on the whole, the cats are friendly and cared for, the odd one is a bit scraggy, but the majority of sun bathers, fish snatchers and scrap hoovers can be stroked and picked up. Often found asleep on the seat next to you in the outdoor cafe, or just ambling down the cobbles, Essaouira is all about the cat.

villa maroc

I have never tried any kind of class in creative writing before, or studied anything further than exams in English, so it was a complete and utter surprise to find out how Claire unlocks the words and imagination in our heads. She cleverly weaves her wisdom and kindness to encourage and stimulate every level of writer. The group practise became like a therapy for me, as we unlocked memories and life experiences to enrich our words.

Afternoons we wandered, shopped, sat in cafes being entertained by slightly toothless and tuneless street musicians, and we smiled and laughed, loudly and often.

Within a day we had found our way around, sticking to the outside walls will often take your round in a circle, the more we wandered the more we became brave to exploring the narrow alleys. Often we would wander alone and there was never any problems or unwanted attention to anyone, sure they like to sell to you, the banter is fairly full on, so if you want to shop be prepared to haggle and spend some considerable time doing so.

The sellers will often take ages before they quote you a price and then when you have your starting point expect to get them down to half the amount they started with. So when they ask 'what do you want to pay' say under half what they first said. They will act horrified, but if you start to walk away they will do anything to meet you somewhere in the middle, the banter can be quite hilarious. Be firm, don't feel obliged, if they are being ridiculous then walk away.

villa maroc

If anyone asks if you'd like to go to the 'hippy village' or Jimi Hendrix house, don't bother, its one scrappy cafe miles from anywhere.  We learnt the hard way and brushed it off to experience. Some of the braver souls got a camel ride back along the beach, which maybe I will try another time.

The beach is large, made of fine sand and windy.  Popular with wind surfers but certainly not too overcrowded. Here you can get camel rides, but I have no idea what it's like to swim, I'm sure the locals will advise you.

I had no idea that in the seventeen years that had passed, the shops would now have enlarged their range of wares and you can now buy great clothes, suitable for the climate and modest enough for the culture. I would suggest packing as little as possible, loose trousers, linen tops and light cotton layers can all be found, as can straw hats, lovely scarves and sandals of all kinds.

The streets are uneven and full of holes, so make sure you have some sensible shoes with you that won't rub when you do lots of walking in heat, perhaps save the sandals for a walk on the beach.

The food was fantastic, and I will mention below the names of places I tried and liked. Seafood freshly caught will be on most menus. If you are worried about avoiding any tummy upsets I can only give the advice that works for me.  I know people who do have one day of problems, I didn't want to risk it so I avoided tap water, even for brushing teeth, and salad which is washed in tap water. If everything you eat is cooked (particularly tagines that come piping hot) then it's safer for those who don't have a cast iron stomach.
The fancy restaurants will cost about 20 t0 25 euros for three courses without alcohol.  Lunch can be found for under 5 euros, the berber tagine is an omelette with flavours, a brochette is a skewer of meat, the grilled chicken is great. Vegetarians have lots of choices cooked and salads. Buy some hand sanitiser gel when you get there, in case you can't resist stroking a few cats or have handled some dirty junk. Some cafes may not have toilet tissue so a few wet wipes might also be handy to carry.

If, like me you find yourself divided by your own and your partners wishes on holiday then this could cover all bases.  Mine likes to sunbathe, so while he roasts on the terrace or braves the sea, I will be seeking the shade in some antique jewellery store, trying on the treasures previously owned by some bedouin, berber tuareg nomad.

The tribal jewellery is stunning, but if your tastes are more european then there are equally the same amount of new jewellery shops.  Rugs are also a speciality and a modest sized one can fold up smaller to squeeze in that empty suitcase. Have in mind your colour scheme before you go.

Lunch cafes I liked were Safran in a square surrounded by shops just off a main shopping street(Avenue Mohammed Zerktouni), also the Cafe Sahakfe which has healthy food and is on the Place de L'horage. Next door the shop selling clothes has lovely tops for men. Just round the corner is the Villa Maroc where you can book for an evening meal. Chez Ali doesn't look much but they serve a great Berber Omelette.

Other great eateries are ; The Unicord (La Licorn) Rue Skala (where there are also some lovely craft shops selling wooden boxes), Le Table de Madada, I didn't like Taros, it's very noisy,and the atmospheric and beautiful The Patio (fish). 

If your budget doesn't extend to the Villa Maroc I would suggest that you try and stay within the old city walls, in the Medina or Kasbah where your experience will be enhanced by the hundred year old houses, medieval walls and carless streets.  Here you can walk everywhere easily and drop back to your room when you need a rest.

I have already booked to go back as I want to do more and share in detail more individual shops. I am definitely taking empty suitcases with bubble wrap inside so I can wrap the breakables better. 

Love from along the watchtower ... x

Easy French Food - a flavour of Lush Getaways

Another ambition of mine this year, in a quest to always be learning new things, is to cook simple tasty food from scratch, and it's got to be easy, I mean really easy.  Later this year I've booked to go to the South of France where I will be watching some experts cook and also shop for ingredients on farmers markets.  So in an effort to get in the swing of it before my Lush Getaway I'm going to try a few things out. It's just a question of getting in the habit really.

Maybe because I am partly French, from a Grandmother who died a month before I was born and whose family I know nothing about, I have always had a yearning for all things French, even my first boyfriend was!  My French Grandmother came to England, I know not why, and was dis-owned by her family when she married my Grandad who was lower class.  My mother never learnt one word of French, as Margarita had left that all behind her.  I have tried to follow my ancestry but sadly cannot find out anything about my Grandmother before she came the the UK.

I visited France as a child and we toured around in our Citroen car, yes even my Dad picked up on the love of all things French, I was besotted with the place, the religious statues on the side of roads or guarding vineyards in particular. 

So back to my cooking, after talking to Kim Mancha about how she is setting up this fantastic retreat in a 17th Century French Chateaux, and how they have top quality chefs demonstrating cooking, I got a craving for some simple cheese, wine bread and olives.  

As it's still a bit chilly to go on a picnic I thought I would do one indoors for me and him as a weekend lunch treat. After seeing two recipes for 'baked Camembert' I decided that this would be my first endeavour as it is warming and perfect comfort food.

I found two recipes that I liked the look of, one by Jamie Oliver who suggests putting some crusty French bread in the oven as well, with a drizzle of olive oil on it, some rosemary and sea salt, then dip the crunchy bread into the gooey cheese and then into some chopped cranberries and nuts.  

My other cooking guru is my friend Elinor, who is also known as The Beach-hut Cook and she has a recipe for cooking it on a camp fire with a splash of white wine, vermouth or cider on it.

Mine was cooked in the conventional oven for no longer than 15 mins, I scored the top and poked in garlic and rosemary, then drizzled with olive oil.

When I'm in France this year, Kim will be introducing all of us on the Lush Getaway Retreat, to local chefs and wine makers, as she has beeen living there now for over ten years, building up her business called The Bohemians, you can find Kim on instagram   @thebohemiansfrance and facebook as Kim Bohemians.  

Another part of the getaway is going to be some excursions to antique markets and shops, so between now and September, I will be planning which key pieces I really want to find over there.  Fairly soon I'm going to be putting together a guide to the essential pieces in creating the French Style in your home. I'm hoping that co-organiser and interior expert Johnelle at @mignondecor will guide me.

One of our chefs on the Lush retreat is Abigail Hitchcock who can normally be found in her Greenwich village Bistro, and will be putting an American twist to some French classics.  

Chef number two is local man, Christophe Dupuy who is the executive chef at the Brantome restaurant Les Jardins de Brantome.  His restaurant is in the Michelin guide describing his cooking as 'tasty local fare, sourcing ingredients from small-scale farmers'.

I can't wait to go round the local market with Christophe where he will demonstrate afterwards, how to cook the ingredients freshly bought.

Now then, we can't ignore the fact that here in Brantome we will be right in the wine region, home to Bordeaux and Bergerac vintners.

Jocelyne Pecou is a winemaker who will show us round her vineyard
and give us a 'purely educational' wine tasting, purely educational you understand, so I will make sure I go so that I can report back to you guys, unless of course, you decide to come with me! This is totally possible as the September Lush Getaway is just opening its books, so please don't hesitate, click on the links above and find out how to book your room at the chateaux.

One last thing, Kim tells me that the French never skip desert. My favourite is Tart Tartin, with plump fat caramelised apples on a flaky pastry base.  Serve piping hot or cold, it's great both ways.

Please have a look at https://www.lush-getaways.com and I'm sure you will be convinced to join me on this luxury week.

I'm currently exploring the culinary delights of Morocco which also has a French influence, more about that next week.  Until then - bon appetite.

What to pack for Morocco - Top Ten Travel Tips

I apologise that this is the not the most attractive of posts but as this year I'm doing a lot of travelling, I thought it would be worth me telling you my packing and travel tips. Obviously, it varies from country to country, not just the weather but also local customs and what is considered respectable. This is also the result of years of being on the road when I was in the music industry, working in International Promotions for many years.

I'm off to Morocco in a few days on a creative writing retreat with 'Magical Journeys' Claire Steele.  We are staying in the Villa Maroc in Essaouira, which strangely and coincidentally was the same amazing hotel that I stayed in on my last visit 17 years ago to celebrate my 40th.  Claire regularly takes her writers here so she is a good person to consult on what it's like now, however, there are still a few basic rules and tips for this kind of holiday.

1. No bare flesh - for some continents reveal as little as possible, you will thank me if you follow this, as the unwanted attention can be quite a pain in the posterior. This is for Africa and India particularly. It's ok to sunbathe in the proper areas, like your hotel or resort, but if you are intending to walk the city streets then you need to get covered. 

So my clothes are long, loose trousers, mostly linen, and very thin cotton t-shirts which can be layered up with a long sleeve blouse. Scarves are very handy to have in your bag as an additional instant cover up. Please remember not to bare too much as it is disrespectful to the culture. I have one pair of cotton pantaloon trousers from Holy Cow Home that look like a skirt, they have an elastic waistband and be dressed up or down.  My pink leather journal is also from Holy Cow Home, essential for this writing trip!

2. Natural fabrics, try and stick to fine cotton and linen, when shopping on line I saw some lovely sheer tops but they were rayon and I think this could be counter productive to wear synthetics.

I find that the best t-shirts for layering are American Vintage, this label is simply brilliant and they have taken the basics to a new level of luxury.  I get mine from Amelie Fashion in Berkhamsted who also sell '7 For All Mankind' Jeans.

leather backpack Agnes B, Jacket Zara, Night Dress from Mistress Of Linen, fine lace wool scarf knitted by me.

3. Sensible handbag which you can wear across your body or on your back.  I have this great leather rucksack from Agnes B as it's the best way for me to carry my very heavy camera.  You can fit a lot in this type of bag and it is considered a handbag by the airlines.

I use the outside pockets for daily essentials like hand sanitiser, insect repellent and lip balm.

American Vintage extra fine cotton t-shirts

4. Travel in something more substantial than shorts and heels, going from the UK to Africa you will experience quite a change of temperature so layer and layer for the outgoing trip.  I wear stretchy jeans and the ones from '7 For All Mankind' are my favourites, they do a thin coated cotton that looks like leather but is light as a feather, and a super stretch pair that look like suede, you hardly feel as if you are wearing them. I think these are a bit dressier than blue denim, also lighter in weight, smart and fashionable.   If you are sitting in cramped conditions on a plane or car you want something with a bit of give and stretch too. In black these can work for an evening outfit when the temperature drop and dressed up if you treat yourself to a posh hotel cocktail. 

I'm teaming these up with lots of other black layers for the journey, a t-shirt, a blouse and an embroidered jacket (from Zara), the layers can get peeled off as the climate gets warmer and worn in any combination. I found this pure silk blouse from M&S which has an open back with a tie, ideal for letting the heat escape while looking classy.

Wear very comfortable shoes, lightweight trainers are ideal for pounding the long walks on airport corridors with all your bags. Im adding gel insoles to mine to give extra bounce.

It is completely possible that your destination will sell a good array of light and low cost hot weather clothes, Essaourira is one such place, so you can really trust here that you will be able to buy a few suitable outifits.

pearls and lace wash bag from Van Asch Sweden  Silk blouse with back opening from Marks & Spencer

5. Decant your toiletries. I got a pack of empty bottles from Boots and labelled with a sharpie, so I only carry as much shampoo and conditioner as I need, these can be quite heavy items. I've also just had an Olaplex treatment done on my hair which means it will he a lot easier to wash and style as the Olaplex is a mega conditioner for colour treated hair, it makes the hair soft, shiny and more manageable, good to do if you are in the sun as it will protect your hair.

A few days before I leave I work out what is the minimum amount of make-up I can cope with, I ditch the usual array of brushes and stick to a palette of colours with a sponge applier from Lily Lolo. My foundation is a mineral one with high spf of 30, another essential. Please remember to put these in your checked-in bags as you can't take liquids through security without a lot of hassle.

Think about all eventualities - food poisoning, sun burn, insect bites etc.  For a country like Morocco take Imodium, insect repellent, dioralite for re-hydration and sun screen.

My latest 'all round handy product' is Moringa Oil, you can use this for just about anything and there's 10% off before the end of March.

So here's my legs to demonstrate two things - one is that I use Moringa Oil on all my dry skin and tattoos, it brings the ink out beautifully as my legs get very dry. (The second point is to show why I'm wearing long trousers, I have the feeling that the tattoos might get too much attention).  

If you haven't heard of this oil, well it's got so many uses, for dry skin, hair and scalp, it is said to have anti-ageing properties as well as antiseptic properties which can treat insect bites, sun burn, skin infections and can be used on children. My skin is very glowing and soft after just a few weeks of using it.

Denise at Wikaniko says the following about getting your Moringa Oil at a reduced price ; there are links for purchase and information

This link to be used to direct your readers to the oil: http://denisebedson.wikaniko.com/?redirect=/moringa-oil-100ml.html

Also if they use the code: MOR10 - this will give them 10% off of their purchase (valid until the end of March).

This link can be used to see how our Moringa is grown on our plantation in Spain: http://denisebedson.wikaniko.com/?redirect=/all-moringa-products/cheap-moringa.html

This link can be used to go to the page with all our Moringa products on: http://denisebedson.wikaniko.com/?redirect=/all-moringa-products.html

pantaloon cotton trousers and pink journal from Holy Cow Home.  7 For All Mankind and J Brand Cargo pants from Amelia Fashion Berkhamsted.

6. Sandals.  I read one travel blog which suggested wearing jelly shoes (in a ballet pump style).  Sorry, but this sounds like one big sweaty fest to me, there is only one shoe for me when it comes to heat and walking - the Birkenstock.  It's only when I wear these that my feet don't swell up like Frodo's feet and stay cool. The thicker sole is non slip and the lip around the edge prevents dirt and dust flying under your feet.

7. Sunglasses/Transitions.   If, like me you wear glasses or even if you only wear reading glasses, then I suggest you invest in a pair of bi-focals (or vari-focals) which transition to sunglasses as soon as they are exposed to light.  I never have to bother changing glasses over, I wear them all the time and it stops the hassle of constantly changing your glasses over.

8. Suitcase on Wheels.  Backpacks are all very good for the young and strong but for us ladies of a certain age, get a decent soft case with wheels, I say soft because for a short trip you can pull the straps in to slim it down and for longer stays, let it expand to accommodate all the things you bought on holiday. Mine is from Eastpack.

9. Sensible Nightdress.  I find that most places you go you end up running into hotel staff in your nightie, so it's probably best not to have a see-through one.  Mine is a heavy linen antique French smock, which although it's quite thick is remarkably cool. You may end up on the roof or a balcony in your nightdress or pj's so keep them sensible, mine could pass as a dress in it's own right.

10. Don't take what you may buy when you get there.  This might sound odd but here's an example. On this trip I have researched that I might be able to get some ethiopian jewellery, I generally like ethnic jewellery so I'm not going to wear any or take any as I think I will be buying some in the Essaouira souk.  

I suggest you research what an area specialises in and check what prices you should be paying for things. There's no point in buying something for the same price as you would have paid on e-bay, you need to be getting it cheaper at source.  

If you are worried about how much you want to carry then stick to items like jewellery and textiles, unbreakable, small and light.     

If you haven't travelled for a few years you may find that there is quite a difference in security at airports, please allow lots of extra time for queues, you will probably have to take your shoes off to go through the metal detector, (so avoid something with lots of laces) and don't carry any liquids. You are not allowed to take your bottle of water or recently purchased drink through with you.

Items like travel plug adaptors (for recharging), ear plugs, luggage labels, can all be bought at the airport, just allow enough time before your flight. 

Here's my list of recommended retreat holidays for you to consider;

Magical Journeys - creative writing with Claire https://www.facebook.com/magicalwritingjourneys/

Hill View Moments - with Natasha, generally these are yarn, wool, knitting, crochet and weaving related trips.  Currently booking for Portugal https://www.facebook.com/HillViewMoments/?ref=py_c

Lush Getaways - the full on French experience, food, cooking, shopping, wine, relaxation, cocktails, yoga, all in a 17century manor house.  Next one is September https://www.lush-getaways.com/

I am expecting to be able to offer you a discount on the Lush Getaway retreat in September, more about that soon, but do please check out the beautiful property and be sure to book soon.

Safe Journeys everyone x

Meet The Macrame Maker

I've always held the belief that artistic people are multi-faceted, that this side of the brain can be responsible for music and art, dance and craft. My friends from 'way back' are no exception, many of them were in a successful singing group yet now, on top of being mothers, are entrepreneurs in the fields of home furnishings and clothing.

Nicole Frobusch is one such lady, having had her own children's clothing label, and organising a trade show for small independents in that field, she is also passionate about her spirituality, reiki and natural therapies, and her home reflects her eye for textiles.

Based in London with her two beautiful daughters and a menagerie of cats, rabbit and one mahoosive dog, Nicole is now turning her hand to macrame and tribal influenced wall art.  Taking a lot of her vibe from native American Indians, and the Indians on the other side of the globe, the pieces, available on Etsy, are more than just a nice thing to hang on the wall.

The wool is hand dyed using natural colours, turmeric and beetroot for example. Some have crystals and stones attached which have been collected by Nicole on her travels.  These pieces are woven with love. There are good positive vibes tied into these knots.

You can find these works at Bird Tribe Wall Art on Etsy, and there you will see the influences behind the pieces.  The ones on hoops are titled 'earth, fire, water and air' and you may be interested that she also let's you know what Horoscope sign they relate to.

Some of the hangings have cleansed crystals attached, which will attract peace, balance and Love to your home environment.

Although we are late to the party, I also want to congratulate Joanne Hawker on her hashtag prompt for March - Meet The Maker.
You can find the illustrator over at http://www.joannehawker.co.uk/, where she has a prompt for every day of March, it's such a great idea.

For the full range of Bird Tribe Wall Art go to https://www.etsy.com/uk/people/birdtribewallart1

Over on instagram we are gifting one of these beautiful pieces to the chosen winner of March #BeHomeFree so get tagging your pics for a chance to win one.

And this, below, is the actual one you can win, so get tagging and don't forget to follow @birdtribewallart 

Coming soon - what to pack for an early sunshine getaway and how to create the French Style in your home.

Love and bunnies from Janice, wishing you a happy peaceful home.